Other places have clubs or pubs, trattorias, bars, bistros; Vienna has coffee houses. The rules are simple: find a seat, order a cup of coffee, grab a newspaper, then another one, talk to a friend, spend the day - without placing another order. The server will let you be. He might replace the glass of water that comes with the coffee with a fresh one every once in a while, but he will not bug you. When you decide to leave and ask for the check he might take his time, showing you that he couldn't care less. It's a game, it takes practice. Vienna's coffee houses are the L.A. antithesis: they are slow and they have no regard for those who seek to produce themselves. Pictures: seating area and newspaper rack at Café Zentral
Culture, Lifestyle, Politics: An Immigrant from Austria Explores L.A. and the America Beyond It